Friday, November 10, 2023

Drive and Birding - Bekal Kerala

After taking some time off for a couple of months, I was back again with the craving for a long drive. I had been targeting various 5-star properties all across India and Taj Bekal Kerala, was right there on the top of my to-do list. It is about an hour of driving distance from Mangalore Airport and most of the guest who visit Taj Bekal, do fly in to Mangalore unless of-course they are driving from somewhere relatively nearer. However, people like me are rare, who would prefer to drive all-the-way from Hyderabad, instead of taking a flight. 

I planned the trip, booked a room, pit stop in Bangalore and in no time I was in my favourite place, which is behind the wheels.

Day 1: Hyderabad to Bangalore 554 km 

Started from Hyderabad: 5-07 AM 

Reached Taj Bangalore (near Airport): 12-14 PM 

Total time: 7 hours 7 minutes 

R&R: 10 minutes for refueling 

Total Toll: Rs. 700 

Max Speed: 118 km/hr (I always set the speed limiter in the car at 118 km/hr so that I don't have the hear the annoying beep of 120 ever)  

Driving Style: Very heavy foot, Mode - Dynamic. Touching the redline on every overtake of trucks, even if it not needed, gives me the real fun of driving. I'm not at an aggressive driver and I tend to take a step back if i find people trying to race me. It doesn't make any sense on Indian roads with Indian public. But if i have the empty road ahead, and I'm overtaking a truck right when it leaves the lane open for me to shoot ahead, I always end up touching 6000 rpm. It gives me an immense pleasure in doing so. Yes, the fuel economy takes a hit. When i did the Jabalpur trip, I was on a very light foot driving style and it resulted in a fuel economy of 18.2 km/l. This time on a heavy foot driving style, the car returned 13.5 km/l. that's a lot of difference, but I would say even 13.5 is not that bad considering how many times i touched the rpm red line.

View from my room @ Taj Bangalore


Day 2: Bangalore to Bekal (Kerala)  404 km 

Started from Bangalore: 8-07 AM after breakfast at the hotel 

Reached Taj Bekal: 3-51PM 

Total Time: 7 hr 44 min 

R&R: 20 minutes near Madikeri Coorg 

Total Toll: Rs. 560 

Max Speed: 118 km/hr 

Driving Style: Heavy foot 

The drive from Bangalore to Bekal was an interesting one. One will have to go all the way up through the hills of western ghats and then go all the way down till the coast of Arabian sea. On the way you get the Bangalore Mysore Expressway, you also get to see the beautiful forests and ghat roads of Coorg. And then you finally enter the God's own country. 

The ghat section is not that difficult compared tot he other ghat sections that I have done, the roads after Mysore don't have a divider, so it is all single lane, braking and overtaking, combine that with the hill section and the driving is a bit tiring, i would say. But then again, it gives a lot of fun too and that is what is important for me. 

The roads in Kerala are mostly very narrow, you have to be very cautious as they are lined up with big green trees all around, the visibility does get hampered on many twists, so stay alert, be vigilant, don't overspeed, these are the mantras of driving safely in Kerala roads. 

Once you reach Taj Bekal, it is a different world all together. The calm and serene environment at the resort, the luxurious stay that it provides, the facilities and activities that you can do, is definitely one of the best out there. Bekal also has Lalit Hotels but I was not even interested to look into their website. Maybe I'm just smitten by the Taj affair. 

@ Taj Bekal


Day 3: At Taj Bekal 

I took the cycling activity, wherein the Hotel provides you a cycle with gears and you get to ride it till Bekal Fort and back. The hotel staff will accompany you on this trip and will provide you guidance on how to cycle and when and where to change gears, etc. It is a chargeable activity nevertheless quite apt to the experience that it provides. For me, it was the first time in my life, that i was riding a cycle with gears. Bekal fort is about 8 km from the resort so the to-and-fro cycling will be about 16 km with some tough uphill and downhill both ways. It was real fun though, I was cycling after about 25 years or so, enjoyed every bit of it. Bekal Fort is beautiful, not like those Rajasthan forts, but it had it's own charm. 

At the Fort entrance there was a Hanuman Temple and the entire fort area was clean and tidy. 

Bekal Fort viewpoint 


Day4: At Taj Bekal 

I also booked the morning bird watching session with the hotel naturalist. Not a lot of birding opportunity in and around the property, but i really got the best of the shots of Brahminy Kite. That one shot of Brahminy Kite was enough to give me the joy out of the entire birding session. 

Brahminy Kite

Southern Coucal

White-throated Kingfisher

Lesser Goldenback male

Wire-tailed Swallow

Black-crowned Night Heron

Black-hooded Oriole

Indian Golden Oriole 

I can't say enough about Taj Bekal. The property is right beside the beach and you must not miss the sunset here. The beach is not their privately owned property, but you won't find any general public out there as it is quite exclusive. Taj also takes an effort in keeping it well maintained. 

The activities at Bekal are many and one must try to engage in them if you want to make memories. Go for the Bekal fort morning cycling, also go for the sunset houseboat cruise, go for morning nature trek and bird watching. Besides if you still have time left, then go for zip-lining, archery, yoga, ayurved spa and countless indoor games too. Unless you just want to spend your time soaking in your private plunge pool. Bekal has everything that you need to make a wonderful vacation.   

I took the houseboat river cruise during sunset and the experience was surreal. Those backwaters were so beautiful, you can spend hours just keep looking at them. The houseboats are not allowed in the open sea but they take you till the mouth of the Arabian sea and back.  

Day 5: Drive from Taj Bekal to Taj Yeshwantpur Bangalore 367 km 

Started from Bekal: 8-47 AM after breakfast at the hotel 

Reached Taj Yeshwantpur: 3-44PM 

Total Time: 6 hr 57 min 

R&R: 20 minutes near Madikeri Coorg 

Total Toll: 450

Max Speed: 118 km/hr 

Driving Style: Heavy foot 

The reason why i booked Taj Yeshwantpur on my return journey was because it was near to the entry of Bangalore from Mysore. Taj Bangalore Airport one was on the opposite end and I had to cross the entire city to reach there. That i did on my onward journey but this time i wanted to experience Taj Yeshwantpur and i also wanted to save driving time on my return journey. As per the perfect location of both hotels, it is always better to stay at airport one while coming from Hyderabad and stay at Yeshwantpur if returning via Mysore. 

Day 6: Drive from Taj Yeshwantpur to Hyderabad Home 576 km

Started from Taj Yeshwantpur: 9-55 AM after breakfast at the hotel 

Reached Home: 5-40 PM 

Total Time: 7 hr 35 min 

R&R: Only refueling  

Total Toll: 945 

Max Speed: 118 km/hr 

Driving Style: Heavy foot 

I am not sure why the toll was more on the return journey even though I took the same route on both occasions. But one way toll from Bangalore to Hyderabad for Rs. 945 was definitely steep. It may not be bothering me so much but it definitely will bother many others. 10 years ago the toll was hardly around Rs. 400 for this one way trip. Imagine at what rate it is increasing. There was also a time in India when the tolls were only limited for a certain number of years or months, now it is everlasting and ever increasing. I wouldn't mind if they end up giving us good roads to drive. At the end of the day, even if one ends up getting good roads, who will stop the idiots who come out on the road driving like maniacs. That's a topic not worth mentioning here. They might show off a sticker on their bumper from India's biggest motor blog, but when it comes to common sense of driving, these people have zero brains. 

Everything aside, this was a very successful and rejuvenating trip. A wonderful drive, amazing stay and countless memories. 

Sunday, March 19, 2023

Drive from Lucknow to Agra

 

Lucknow – Agra – Lucknow

 

Total Distance: 330 (onward) + 330 (return) = 660 km

Total time: 4 hr (onward) and 4 hr (return)

Average fuel economy: 17.5 kmpl

Car: Audi A4 Petrol

Place of stay: Tajview Agra



The primary reason to do this trip was to experience the Lucknow Agra expressway. It took almost 4 hours to cover the 330 km stretch. The Tajview is a wonderful hotel to stay. It is very near to the expressway and one doesn’t even have to enter the city to reach the hotel. I stayed there for 2 nights and the view of Taj from the window of the room was really awesome. The hotel has 2 dogs of their own, Max and Maya and of course it is a pet friendly hotel. The food was good, there was ample space to park the car, I even saw 2 dedicated parking spots for electric cars.

Sunday, March 12, 2023

Drive from Lucknow to Dhanachuli

Lucknow – Dhanachuli – Lucknow

Below is the list of all the bird species that I saw in Dhanachuli, followed by the pics. 
  1. Ashy Drongo
  2. Barn Swallow
  3. Black Bulbul
  4. Black Francolin
  5. Black-headed Jay
  6. Black-throated Accentor
  7. Black-throated Tit
  8. Blue Whistling Thrush
  9. Blue-capped Redstart 
  10. Blue-fronted Redstart
  11. Booted Eagle 
  12. Brown-fronted Woodpecker
  13. Coal Tit 
  14. Common Stonechat
  15. Eurasian Collared Dove
  16. Great Barbet
  17. Greater Yellownape 
  18. Green-backed Tit
  19. Grey Bushchat
  20. Grey Treepie
  21. Grey-backed Shrike 
  22. Grey-headed Woodpecker 
  23. Grey-hooded Warbler
  24. Himalayan Bulbul
  25. Himalayan Buzzard
  26. Himalayan Woodpecker 
  27. House Sparrow
  28. Jungle Crow
  29. Jungle Myna
  30. Lesser Whitethroat 
  31. Long-tailed Minivet
  32. Long-tailed Shrike
  33. Oriental Turtle Dove
  34. Oriental White-eye
  35. Red-billed Blue Magpie
  36. Red-rumped Swallow 
  37. Rock Bunting
  38. Rose-ringed Parakeet
  39. Rufous Sibia
  40. Russet Sparrow
  41. Scaly-bellied Woodpecker 
  42. Spotted Dove
  43. Streaked Laughingthrush
  44. Striated Laughingthrush 
  45. Upland Buzzard 
  46. Verditer Flycatcher
  47. White-tailed Nuthatch 
  48. White-throated Laughingthrush
  49. Yellow-breasted Greenfinch 

 TRIP 1: March 2023

Total driving distance: 406 onward + 406 return = 812 km
Total time: 8 hours onwards and 9 hours return.
Average fuel economy: 14.2 kmpl
Car: Audi A4 Petrol
Passengers: 3 adults
Luggage: Full boot
Place of stay: Rituraj Homestay (https://goo.gl/maps/WNsLH41g5BW3HpPV7)
 
Dhanachuli is like a second home to us. My parents used to visit Dhanachuli every year and stay there for the entire summer. Incidentally, I never got a chance to visit until now. This time I was staying in Lucknow for about a month and I realized that it would be a wonderful opportunity for me to visit and see this place. I had the Audi too with me, so the journey should also be very comfortable. Apparently there is a problem with the 4G/5G connection, hence I planned to stay for only the weekend. A couple of days’ stay, only to know what the place is and what kind of potential it has for birding and the potential for a long term stay.
 
Dhanachuli is quite pristine, compared to Nainital / Mukteshwar, there is hardly any tourist traffic here and the village is not at all crowded. Perfect for a long term stay. Birding is phenomenal, at an altitude of 7000 ft, you can easily imagine how beautiful the bird life will be. If I list down the species that I saw in a matter of 2 days, anybody would be surprised.
 
The drive till Dhanachuli from Lucknow was smooth. Since it was the month of March, the summer vacation did not start yet, because of that the roads near Bhimtal were completely deserted. It might have saved us about an hour compared to the regular time that it takes usually. We left Lucknow at 5-30 AM and managed to reach Dhanachuli by 1-30 PM. The return journey wasn’t that great though. By mistake I took the route through Bareilly / Khutani and I wouldn’t recommend it to anybody. Too much of traffic compared to the road via Pilibhit. Onward journey was through Sitapur, Sitarganj and Pilibhit, which is much better as far as traffic movement and road condition is concerned.
 
Enjoy some of the pics below.

Black-throated Accentor (lifer)

Rock Bunting (lifer)

Rock Bunting (lifer)

Russet Sparrow male

Grey Bushchat male

Blue Whistling Thrush

Himalayan Bulbul

Long-tailed Minivet female

Long-tailed Minivet male

Streaked Laughingthrush

Blue-fronted Redstart female

Grey Bushchat female

Common Stonechat female

TRIP 2: JUNE 2023

Total driving distance: 406 km onward and 406 km return  
Total time: 8 hours onwards and 8 hours 46 minutes return 
Average fuel economy: 15.5 kmpl 
Car: Honda Amaze Petrol 
Passengers: 3 adults
Luggage: Full boot
Place of stay: Rituraj Homestay (https://goo.gl/maps/WNsLH41g5BW3HpPV7)

This was our second trip and this time neither I had the Audi with me, nor I had my camera gear. Whatever i could click I did it with my mobile. Was lucky to click a lifer butterfly. It was a wonderful season to visit, harvested Peach, Plum, Apricot and Potato with help from Raju (owner and farmer of Rituraj homestay). 

Green Hairstreak - Theclini

Peach tree @ Rituraj Homestay

French hydrangea

Dhanachuli Altitude

Apricot, Peach and Plum harvest @ Rituraj homestay

Apple tree @ Rituraj homestay

View of Himalayas from Rituraj Homestay

Glassy Tiger

Evening view from our home

Himalayan view from our home 

Mother of Pearl Moth

TRIP 3: DECEMBER 2023

Total driving distance: 406 km onward and 406 km return  
Total time: 8 hours 8 minutes onwards and 8 hours 30 minutes return
Average fuel economy: 15.0 kmpl 
Car: Honda Amaze Petrol 
Passengers: 3 adults
Luggage: Full boot
Place of stay: Rituraj Homestay (https://goo.gl/maps/WNsLH41g5BW3HpPV7)

The fact that I will be making 3 trips to Dhanachuli this year, is way too overwhelming, considering I did not make a single trip before this year. Nevertheless, I enjoyed every chance to go there and I'm looking forward to many more such occasions. 

Once again, as it was last time, this was a totally unplanned trip. Since I was not aware about this trip, so I did not bring my camera gear from Hyderabad. Unfortunately, because of that, I missed to click a lifer Blue-capped Redstart male. It was so easy to see that bird all around multiple times, and everytime I saw it feeding nearby, I missed my camera so much. 

Atleast, I got to ID it well and I'm sure next time I go to Dhanachuli in winters, I'm definitely going to carry the gear along. 

TRIP 4: NOVEMBER 2024 

Total driving distance: 406 km onward and 406 km return  
Total time: 7 hours 40 minutes onwards and 8 hours return
Average fuel economy: 17.0 kmpl 
Car: Honda Amaze Petrol 
Passengers: 3 adults
Luggage: Full boot
Place of stay: Rituraj Homestay (https://goo.gl/maps/WNsLH41g5BW3HpPV7)
Route: via Bareily (not via Lakhimpur - Pilibhit)

The route via Bareily has significantly improved, resulting in a time saving of around 45 minutes in the entire journey. My objective in this trip was to take my chances with the Blue-capped Redstart but I never imagined that I will get another lifer, that too a difficult one like Upland Buzzard. I was casually sitting on the terrace enjoying the sun when all of a sudden I spotted the raptor hovering over my head. I picked up my camera, clicked it and when I looked into the Camera LCD, I was not sure what I clicked. Then I opened my book to ID the pic and I was shocked to see that it was an Upland Buzzard. 

Upland Buzzard (lifer)

I was on the lookout for Blue-capped Redstart male this time on the same tree where I missed it last year. It was really a chance sighting this time, as I spotted it only one of the four days I stayed here. But nevertheless, it was a lifer and I was so happy that I managed to get a beautiful shot. 

Blue-capped Redstart male (lifer)

All the four morning for which I stayed there, I went out for birding in the early morning hours. I walked around the property where I was staying, within a radius of 1 km. The morning hours especially were very fruitful. Although I did manage to click a few good shots even in the evening, especially the woodpeckers. 

My chance sighting brought me to this Scaly-bellied Woodpecker female, which I saw after nine long years. Last time I saw it was in the apple orchards of Khajjiar. That time I was using Canon 70D with Canon 400 f/5.6 lens (no IS). This time I had Canon R5 with Canon 400 f/4 and I am also 9 years experienced in photography. No wonder I got such a beautiful shot. But once again, a big shout-out to Canon R5 for being so phenomenal. My photography has significantly improved since I started using that gear. 

Scaly-bellied Woodpecker female

People might say that 400mm isn't a very good reach for Bird photography, more so if you are using a full-frame camera, like R5. And I would completely agree with that. Very often I have faced situations where I felt 400mm was getting a bit of a challenge. Imagine if I'm able to get these shots with 400 mm, what would happen if I start using RF 600mm f/4. Well, that's still far in the future and another 13 Lakhs from my savings. 

I gave about 20 minutes to this woodpecker, trying to find the best angle and trying to get as close as possible without scaring it off. I am definitely not disappointed with the results. 
Scaly-bellied Woodpecker female

After clicking the scaly-bellied woodpecker for 20 minutes, I moved ahead and saw a bird perching on top of a tree. I started clicking it thinking as the Rock bunting male. It was quite far for me to correctly identify it through the viewfinder. I just saw the bold streaking on the face and thought maybe I'm clicking the Rock bunting ale, but after I saw it in the LCD of the camera, I realized i clicked the Black-throated Accentor once again which I did last year. 
Black-throated Accentor

Almost every day, atleast once a day, a mixed flock hunting party of Tits and warblers visit my place of stay in Dhanachuli. And as always, these mixed flocks are there for about 5-10 minutes. If you are lucky enough, they do come out front on one of the bare branches and give you a chance to click these magnificent beauties. You have to be fast, but you do get a chance. Once again, R5 does wonders in these occasions and I managed to click this Tit up-close. 
Black-throated Tit

I was surprised to find this Lesser Whitethroat in one of those mixed flocks of Tits and Warblers. I never knew this bird prefers to be hunting in those mixed flocks. And I never knew this bird is found in this altitude too. Last I saw this bird, was in Greater Rann of Kutch. Even though i got a bare sky background, but the shot wasn't bad. It was near and I got the feather streaks too. 
Lesser Whitethroat

This is such a rare Tit to spot. It was in the mixed flock of other Tits. When I saw it, I could not get enough time to get a good sharp shot. And in that mixed flock of 50 odd Tits, this was the loner. I tried to search if there were any other individuals of Coal Tit, but I could not. It is definitely rarer than other Tits and I hope someday I get a better shot than this one. 
Coal Tit

Black-throated Tit

One morning, there was a flock of Greenfinch, but they hurried so fast going downhill, that I could barely managed to get this shot on an electric wire (not the idle shot for birds). It did flew from this wire to a tree, but by the time I could run and reach an angle to click on that tree, they just took off. Next time I go to Dhanachuli, I will try to find this one. Hopefully I can get them somewhere feeding on the ground. Supriya got a beautiful shot of this bird in Makku in 2019. If I stay in Dhanachuli for a few more days, I'm sure I will get a chance to click them again. This is the perfect altitude for them and they do feed on the farmland of hills, so I might have a chance to click them again, hopefully. 
Yellow-breasted Greenfinch

There were atleast 20 Treepies in and around my place of stay, but they are always inside the dense foliage, where I know they have their nest, or mostly sitting on top the tree where I don't get a good enough eye-level shot. However, once of the mornings when I trekked down a new route, I noticed them sitting on top of a tree, but this time the tree was further downhill making a good bokeh with the deep valley beyond. Not only I good a good eye-level shot, but it was clean and sharp with a wonderful bokeh. What more do you need in bird photography. 
Grey Treepie

The best shot of Greater Yellownape we clicked in Kalimpong. This time did not see the male, but for this species, even the female is equally beautiful. Just the throat part, which is yellow in male and rusty in female. Got a good near-full-frame shot and it followed with the sighting of the vocal White-throated Laughingthrush. 
Greater Yellownape female

I heard the call of White-throated Laughingthrush coming from somewhere downhill. I went down immediately trying to explore the area hoping I would find it. And there was a spot on an abandoned, freshly harvested green-pea farm, where the entire flock of White-throated were feeding on the ground. I had to climb up a set of stones to come up to eye level with these birds. I waited there for 15-20 minutes, saw them feeding and trying to get the best angle for my clicks. 
White-throated Laughingthrush

White-throated Laughingthrush

In one of those mixed flocks, got to click this one along with the Tits. Although I remember having the best shot of Grey-hooded Warbler in Makku, but i still keep trying. Who knows you might just end up getting a really good shot. After R5, I try to click as much as possible. I know because of the eye-tracking technology, I might end up having a shot worth keeping for lifetime. 
Grey-hooded Warbler

The most taken for granted bird in the hills, is this Blue Whistling Thrush. However, I still feel, given the perfect lighting conditions, there will be fewer birds as beautiful as this one. 
Blue Whistling Thrush 

Red-billed activity is very noticeable during the morning hours. I did not see it much during the evening. Once morning I got such beautiful shots, where the parents were probably collecting the fruits for the chicks. Didn't see the chicks though, but the way they were collecting the fruits, it seemed as if they were either taking it to their nests or taking it somewhere else where the chicks were there. Otherwise they wouldn't be collecting multiple fruits at once. They would rather be eating those right away. 
Red-billed Blue Magpie

The Green-backed is another very common sighting in Dhanachuli, in all weathers, be it summer or winter. I have seen it multiple times, on multiple days, and on multiple occasions. 
Green-backed Tit

I was trying to get the flying shots of Magpie, the sun still did not come out, the lighting was still low, maybe that was the reason I did not get a very sharp image. I could have increased the exposure though, that could have made it look a bit sharper. 
Red-billed Blue Magpie

The below 4 shots of woodpeckers were clicked during one of the evening treks. 
The best Himalayan Woodpecker male shot was clicked by me in Makku, holding the walnut in its beak. I really wish, I had my current gear during that time. 
Himalayan Woodpecker male

All these below woodpecker shots are no doubt my best shots for this species. Even though these shots are in the sky background, but the clarity is good, the reach was okay, and the sharpness is just beautiful. 
Himalayan Woodpecker female

Brown-fronted Woodpecker male

Brown-fronted Woodpecker female

This Jay was feeding on one the harvested farms of Raju. I saw the flock of Jays sitting and feeding there, took my time and angle to get this flying shot, but ultimately got it. I won't say I'm 100% satisfied, the noise level is a bit more, the light was less, the sharpness is not perfect, still it is a good shot to have. 
Black-headed Jay

Streaked Laughingthrush

I had been contemplating whether this is the Kashmir nuthatch or the White-tailed Nuthatch. I really wasn't sure whether it was Kashmir one or not. It is indeed very hard to find out on the field about the difference, so i settled for white-tailed only as it is more common and Kashmir is rarer to find. 
White-tailed Nuthatch

Grey-backed Shrike

Last year got the male of Rock Bunting, this time got the female. The sky background isn't always the greatest of all, but atleast the shot was clean, sharp and within more than acceptable reach. 
Rock Bunting female

This bird made me run the most. I even played its call, but somehow it didn't bother to respond. It just didn't come out of the foliage and I was forced to click it from within the leaves and twigs. 
Striated Laughingthrush

Himalayan Buzzard

Booted Eagle

View from Dhanachuli

Indian Red Admiral

Purple Sapphire

This trip was well planned in advance, hence I had the chance to bring my camera. I'm not sure whether it was my luck or was it the season, but bird watching was just awesome this time. I got a lot of beautiful shots, some of them very near to my, with a lot of details and resolution in the pics, and with some good bokehs. I am sure, I can even print some of these pics with full size canvas prints. They were like full frame shots clicked with a full frame camera of 45 MP. At these distances and in such beautiful light, any camera gear would do justice to the birds. I was just lucky that my gear is a more than decent gear needed for birding. If I ever get the 600 f/4, my gear would become the "Ferrari gear" for birding. For now, I can safely call it the "Audi gear".